Look familiar?? Yep. These diagrams are from Fit For Real People & they depict what sloping & broad shoulders would look like. I know from my body graph that I have both. Hence the wrinkles. Right? Gosh. I sure hope so. Because I think I'm going to have to fix that next. Which makes me nervous because, since these are cut on sleeves, the sloping alteration requires that the sleeves be cut off. *Shudder*
Onto the back. Mmm. Shoulder wrinkles present & accounted for. In this picture I had my husband do some tucking, but I think I'll ignore that until I get the shoulder issues fixed. So, all in all...3 muslins down. Minimum of 1 more to go. Sigh. At least I'll be able to give the darts another go & decide definitively if the wrinkles are there to stay & what needs to be done to evict them.
You're making good progress. I'm still working on mine too!
ReplyDeleteSomething that may help with the wrinkle over the bust:
"A dart is the right size if there are no wrinkles surrounding it. If your dart creates fullness and leaves wrinkles over the bust, the width of the bust dart should be decreased. If a large bust is causing a horizontal wrinkle above the bust, the bust dart should be increased." (Fast Fit, p. 164).
Maybe the width of your bust dart needs to be decreased?
Also, I think I have sloping shoulders too, so I'm interested to see how you make the alteration.
I think that you are finishing the dart right on the bust apex. You do that for a sloper but not for a "real" garment. It should finish half an inch below your bust apex so that it releases the fullness over the fullest area. If it is too high that fullness will apear as wrinkles above the dart as it does in yours. BUT you should always fix the shoulders FIRST because the shoulder fix can raise or lower the rest of the bodice, making it necessary to readjust darts, waistline etc, etc. Do the shoulders first, dear.
ReplyDelete