Bombshell Sew Along

Have you guys seen this pattern from Closet Case Files!?!? When I first started delving into bra making*, I thought 'Wow! It would be AWESOME to make my own swimsuit.' In searching the internet I saw Heather's orginal emerald green suit & fell in love. It was perfect. Unfortunately, there wasn't a pattern for it. And altering an existing pattern is quite possibly out of my reach.

But LOOK who's been working her tail off so the rest of us can look fabulous on the beach too! Heather's hosting a sew along starting on Monday to sew up the Bombshell and I am. so. exicted. The fabrics have been ordered and I am ready to go! I originally was going to order from SpandexWorld, but their shipping was positively outrageous. $17 to ship 3 yards of fabric. NoThankYouVeryMuch. But The Fabric Fairy had this pretty purple swimsuit fabric (& I ordered a nude lining) AND as a bonus, she carries swimsuit elastic, too. $25 including shipping. If all goes well, this suit will cost me only $35 to make. I should even have enough fabric left over to make a matching suit for my daughter.

I'm really excited to get started on this! I may end up adding a bra for support...but maybe not. :) We'll see. I don't want it to be something I get hung up on. Besides, I think I might end up needing a 2nd suit at some point anyway. 



*I've burned myself out on bra making. I haven't blogged my triumphs & (mostly) trials, and to be honest I'm still a little let down by  my lack of success. Part of the challenge is that I'm still nursing. The other part is that while bra sewing is very cheap compared to buying RTW (at least in my size), it is  CONSIDERABLE investment both in time & money on the outset. I still dream of being able to whip out a beautiful, well fitting bra, but for now, I'm taking a break. I think my next "move" might be to find a great fitting RTW bra and clone it. The other option is to GULP draft my own block. Someday.

Back to Bags: The Necessary Clutch

 

 I have pretty specific needs needs when it comes to a wallet. I need it to be small enough to fit in a diaper bag, but large enough to carry on it's own when I'm out without the kiddos. So, it needs to fit my cards (only 3 are money related, but insurance cards for 5 people adds up fast), my iPhone (decked out with an Otterbox), and my car keys. I've searched. For months I've searched to no avail. Then I started poking around for wallet patterns. I started considering designing my own. Thank goodness I found The Necessary Wallet Pattern; it's much better than anything I could have come up with on my own.

Image courtesy of Emmalinebags

I bought the pattern right away (how great are instant downloads?!) and set about fabric shopping. I wanted something floral & summery, but decided on this fabric since the black background meant it would transition easily into the cooler months.

 

This pattern is nothing short of brilliant. It had everything I wanted: removable straps, credit card slots, zipper pockets (I added the one on the outside). And the twist lock hardware really pulls it all together (aesthetically & literally, I suppose)  I'm still in awe of how well this came together. It really is one of the best thought out designs that I've used. The instructions were crystal clear. Not once did I find myself confused or bewildered (which really is saying something!) The tone of the tutorial was very conversational, pointing out helpful tips & hints making it easy to see potential roadblocks.  I almost feel as though Janelle (the talent behind Emmaline Bags) and I are sewing BFFs now.

 Credit card slots at both the front & back of the wallet, with slip pocket behind them.

 Between the zippered pocket & the divider is about a 1" space, perfect for holding my iPhone & my car keys, and the sides gusseted sides of the wallet keep everything safe from falling out.

Adding the twist lock on the front was nerve-wracking just because of the fact that you're cutting a HOLE in your beautiful wallet (that you tried uber hard to match the print on). Speaking of print matching, here's how I did it:

I traced the print of my flap onto tissue paper and then matched it up against fabric for the flap border. This fabric (Hello Gorgeous Tossed Flowers on Black) had very little repeats. I had 1/2 yard and struggled to find 2 sets of identical flower clusters.

One other tip I have for sewing thick fabrics (this wallet is well interfaced, which is key to a professional end product) is to use paper clips or bobby pins to hold your fabric together. I've seen
seamstresses use handy looking clips, but I've been unable to find any locally, so my in progress projects often look like this:

Next I'm looking forward to stitching up The Emmaline Bag (as soon as I decide on what fabrics to use).  Just one more picture for the road....

Finished! And Wearable!

Voila! I present you with the fruits of my labor.  Not only is she pretty (for the most part; don't look too close!) but she's FUNCTIONAL!!! The fit is good; comfortable, supportive, and breastfeeding friendly!!!! I'm incredibly excited. I apologize for the less than stellar photos. Bras are incredibly hard to photograph, and as much as I tried, I couldn't bring myself to take worn pictures for all of the world to see. ;) You understand, I'm sure. This is the Bra Elite pattern and I used size 38DD, but altered the band to be a 32 (actually, I think it might have been 31.5)

You want to hear every. single. detail, right? Then read on (if you'd like a slightly more succinct version, you can check out my review on PR)!  I've got this thing about royal purple lately. To make my first "actual" bra I thought I'd kind of reward myself by having something really pretty to work with. The downside to bra making, is that the supplies can be difficult (and expensive) to source in colors. The upside is that it's all dyeable. I had ordered purple tricot for the cups from Sew Sassy, but I ended up dying them along with everything else so the shade would be closer. 

I put all the small pieces in mesh lingerie bag & submerged them in hot water (it's important to place your fabric in the dye bath already wet, to ensure a more even dye).  Everything dyed beautifully, except the strap hardware, but I didn't end up using them any way.  I soaked everything for about an hour; but much of it changed to it's vibrant color much sooner than that.  I used plain ol' Rit dye that I bought awhile ago from Joanns. Before I tried the Rit, though, I had placed an order from Dharma Trading Co. Oh well. To be honest I wasn't expecting the Rit to perform quite so well!

I had cut out all the pattern pieces prior to dying, and in hindsight, I should have just dyed a length of the tricot because after wetting, the tricot tends to curl at the cut edges. That made things slightly trickier, but I wouldn't say that it was overly stressful :)

I added almost an inch to the neckline to achieve more coverage.  I typically prefer more demi-style, but even with the extra width, I wouldn't call this "full coverage" but it does account for my cup size change through out the day (due to breastfeeding--engorged vs. having just fed)

I also added a nursing "sling". For those not familiar, there are 2 types of nursing bras. Full Sling & side sling. The full sling has a second layer basically a full cup that has a hole cut out of it for nursing access. A side sling has basically just a strap going from the strap to the bottom of the cup. I prefer the latter, and so I used my current bra to "draft" the sling. I use the term "draft" here loosly because it was much more...thrown together. Whenever I'm doing something I'm not sure of, I just rush through. It almost never works out...but this time it did, more or less. :)

In my rush, however, I did not really properly mark my pattern to indicate where the sling would begin on the side of the cup. In hindsight, it should have been attached only at the lower cup (about 1" below the upper/lower cup seam). When I was sewing, I accidentally caught the sling in the underarm elastic, so I just kind of "snipped" the sling to make it work. You'll also notice that I didn't "finish" the edges of the powernet.  Most RTW bras do finish it one way or another, but having stuffed a piece of powernet in my bra I found that it wasn't the least bit uncomfortable so I just left it. After having worn it, though, I think the edges are typically finished to help the sling keep its shape.

This bra took forever. I just had this huge "block" because I'd get overwhelmed thinking about the straps and nursing alterations. And there was just a bit of pressure, since when making my other bras, I knew they wouldn't necessarily be wearable...but this one, well, I was counting on it. One thing about bras is you can't try it on until the very last stages. The only thing left to do is add straps.

It does fit. And it is pretty comfortable.  The left cup is a little big after I've just fed and the right cup is a little small if I'm engorged, but, well, that's the name of the game, I guess. With RTW bras I'd just be stuck with that, but in making my own I can adjust that the next time around. And I've got more supplies on the way!

Elite Bra Pattern

We've talked about the Pin Up Girls Classic Pattern. As much as I loved the well put together instructions, I did have a couple reasons to 'feel out' other patterns.

The cups of the Classic bra are made of Duoplex. Typically, seamed bras are made using one of 3 fabrics (from what I can tell). Dupolex, Simplex, or Tricot.  Duoplex had no stretch, but just a smidge of "give". Simplex & tricot are both stretch fabrics. While this means that Duoplex would offer the most support, I...well, I'm not sure I like it.

Second, I wasn't a big fan of the sihloette that the Classic bra left me with. Initailly, I thought this was due to my having left out underwires, but I later added underwires and found the same thing to be true. I still felt like my breast tissue spread out in this bra. I'm sure that can be fixed...but I don't know how. Maybe more underarm coverage?? Anyway, I definitely feel I could make this pattern work for me, with a bit of tweaking, but at the same time I was eager to get to a better jumping off point.  Baby steps.

I just sewed ribbons on as straps for a quick fit check :) And I stuffed the cups with newspaper for the pictures.

That's what brought me to the Elite bra pattern.  I had initlly emailed Anne from NeedleNook Fabrics (the creator of the pattern) to inquire about her bra kits. Somehow I ended up rambling on about the fit issues I had. Imagine my surprise when she wrote me back asking if she could see pictures so she could better analyze the fit.  As awkward as it was to take photos of myself in just my bra (let alone send them to a complete stranger) I was very excited to have some hand holding.  Once I got the kids down for naps that day, I gave Anne a call, and we chatted for over a half hour.  In the end, I ordered the Elite pattern as well as 2 bra kits. Since I kind of fell between pattern sizes, Anne was kind enough to draft me a somewhat 'custom' size. She used an E cup with a 32 band minus a half inch. This would have been very easy for me to do myself, but I found this was just 1 example of how she goes above & beyond for customer service.

Note to self: white on white does not a good photograph make. Sorry readers!

The Elite bra is drafted using tricot for the cups; each lower cup is constructed using a lining & an outer fabric, the stretch going in opposite directions, for better support. I really liked this. Also, the whole band is made from Powernet, with a stabalized center front seam.  Also an interesting tidbit, is that as drafted the straps are not adjustable.  I found this very odd, but have since 'heard' that RTW bras are made this way in order to fit a wider range. When you have a custom made bra, adjustable straps are less necessary.

I'm thrilled with the results.  I had no gaping at the side, the bridge fit well against my rib cage. I initially tried my bra on after nursing my son on my left side and that cup fit perfectly! However, my more "full" breast did not fit quite as well. My next test will be to sew a larger cup size and see how that fits.  That being said, I am confident that my first bra will fit after I'm done breastfeeding.

Pin Up Girls Classic Pattern

Pin Up Girls Classic Full Band

Since we talked last, I've finished another bra, using a different pattern. It, too, will need some adjusting. But for right now let's just focus on the Pin Up Girls Classic pattern, ok?

Size: I ended up sewing a 30E. Just for reference, my measurements are as follows:
High Bust: 32"
Full Bust: 36"
Underbust: 28"

These patterns have you deduct your high bust measurement from your full bust measurement. According to that, I am a 32 D.  The problem with that (for me) is that there is a 4" difference between my underbust (where the band will go) and my high bust. Had I sewn this size, my band would have been much too big (bra bands are meant to do the bulk of the 'supporting' and should therefore be quite snug. Most women are wearing a bra band much too big for htem) I went with my instincts (and underbust measurement) and sewed a 30E (30 is the smallest band size the pattern offers, but it is very simple to size down).

That said, the band could stand to be smaller. This pattern uses Duoplex for the cup fabric, which is a non stretch fabric, but it does offer a bit of give.  The turned out just a smidge too small, and I'd like to sew it using a fabric with a bit of stretch.

As to the instructions themselves....excellent. I would not hesitate to recommend this pattern at all. Here is my review over on PR. It's a bit more thorough, I think.

I talked about the fit in my last post, but for my own info, I thought I'd write up a quick "to do" summary for my next muslin. 

Future alterations:
Move straps closer to neck
Narrow shoulder straps
Take in the bridge at CF 1/4"
Take in band 1" ??
Sew larger cup
Take in a dart at the underarm (upper cup) due to bulging

Finished: My first self stitched bra!

For this post I'm going to ramble about the fit. I'll do another post to review the pattern :)

So here it is.  I have to admit, I'm surprised by how easy this was to construct. It turned out quite well, definitely wearable...for someone else.  When I showed the hubs, he said "Well, gosh...it looks like a real bra to me!" Honey, it is a real bra.  LOL,

 

I apologize for the boring photos. 

Naturally, I didn't expect it to fit. I hoped it would, of course, but I knew that was unlikely. Whenever I go bra shopping I always end up trying on 10+ bras...just to bring home 0-2.  And spend $50-100. It's insane. I probably spend more money on bras than the majority of the rest of my wardrobe. And I don't even have enough bras. 

Here's what's going on

• No underwires. I didn't want to mess with underwires the first go around; I just thought it'd be too much of  a hassle to figure out the fitting. This was a mistake. I should have ordered a few pairs from the get go. I'll wait until I have some before I make my next bra.  
• Gaping at the side cups. This is incredibly common for me. It is tricky to find a RTW bra that doesn't do this.
• The bridge doesn't sit flat against my "chest cavity".  This is partially because there is no underwire & partially because I think the bridge is a touch wide. Again, this is very common for me to come across in RTW. 
• I think the cups fit ok. I think they're a little "pointy", but I can smooth that out in the flat pattern stage. It's so hard to tell without the underwires.  I'm really kicking myself for that.
• Also, I think the straps need to be moved closer to the center. With my sloping shoulders, they do feel like they're slipping off.   Again, this is something I come across quite often in RTW.

All in all, I can't say that I'm disappointed. As much as we all would like everything to fit us straight from the pattern (or even of the rack in RTW), it just isn't the case.  Going into this I kept in mind that it would likely take 3 bras before I had a good fit.  This is a marathon, not a sprint. Giving a man a fish vs teaching him to fish.  If I can nail the fit...the possibilities are endless. The payoff would be huge. In many ways. 

Bra Making: Here We GO!!

I was pleasantly surprised when DH brought home my order from Bra Maker's Supply. I ordered it on the 5th and received it on the 11th...less than a week later. That's CRAZY fast.  Especially considering that it was from Canada...the OTHER side of Canada. Needless to say, I'm thrilled.

The kit includes everything you need to make your first bra.  My favorite part of the kit was that little pink piece of paper.  On one side is a "general" supply list. On the other is a little "worksheet" where you fill in your pattern name, size, and the findings that you'll need. You just fill in the amounts & widths. It's very neat. 

First I had to figure out my size. I had ordered the yellow size range (30 E and up) but when I measured myself according to their directions, I came out to a 32D. My 32 size band bras are actually a little loose (and the pattern doesn't include D cups) so I cut a 30E (the cups of a 32D & a 30E are the same)

I cut largest size of my pattern pieces & photocopied them onto the thickest paper I had on hand.  Then I cut out my size of the pattern pieces from that. My plan was to actually trace around the pattern ONTO the fabric and then cut it out. I really wanted to make sure it was precise; that way it was for sure that any quirks were from something other than less-than-accurate cutting. Because, let's face it, in the past I have been a little...wild when it comes to cutting. I just kind of wing it some times. And then when there's something "off" I'm never sure if it was due to the pattern or me. LOL.

"DOGS" stands for "Direction of Greatest Stretch"

 Then I traced the pattern pieces using my chalk pen.  I made sure to keep it nice and sharp. I also used this for the markings; and I labeled the markings using Washi tape (Painter's tape or Masking tape would work well, too).  I've never been this fastidious in my cutting/marking phase, but this was brand new territory, and by golly, I wasn't going to blow it this early in the game. 

  

Then I pinned the fabric pieces together. Generously. Using more pins than I have on anything ever.I also used my fabric shears over my rotary cutter this time.  If I keep sewing lingerie, I will probably invest in the 18mm rotary cutter.

I laid all the pieces out as recommended in the Make & Fit book from my kit.  I "labeled" all the pieces on the left using  my blue stripe Washi tape and everything on the right using my green polka dot Washi tape so that I wouldn't mix everything up. This was brilliant (if I may say so myself) until the actual sewing. Then it was a pain. But I just removed most of the Washi tape once I had it at the machine. 

As for the construction itself, it has went pretty well so far. My biggest (only?) problem was topstitching the cups.  The instructions did not specify to press--and I KNEW I should. But I doubted myself. So the topstitching is a hot mess & I have some rippleing from our wrestling match; trying to keep the itty bitty seam allowances open WHILE sewing. 

Setting the cups into the band went beautifully. Adding the channelling had me stumped for a minute or two but I got it. :) And this is what it looks like so far: 

 

All that's left is the elastic on the upper band & straps, adding the neckline trim, finishing the straps & adding the hook & eyes.  Then we'll try her on & see how she fits. I'm not really planning on this one being wearable (for one it isn't a nursing bra...though I could alter that after the fact) but I do have high hopes for my red version. :)