Turquoise jeans! |
The fabric is a stable purple baby rib knit, ordered from High End Fabrics on Ebay. I've ordered from them a number of times & have yet to be disappointed.
Fabric ordered, I then had to decide what size to trace. My thought process went like this:
"According to the Sewaholic size chart, I'm a 10 in the bust (size 2 if we go by high bust...there's no way I'm going to do a FBA though...I've gotten along this long without one), an 8 in the waist and a 6 in the hips. Hm. I prefer my tops to be more on the fitted side, but since I'm using a stable knit I don't want it to be too tight. I think the safest bet would be to go with a 10. I can always take the seams in, but I can't necessarily let them back out...actually I could since the pattern uses a 5/8" seam allowance and I won't be serging....ack. I'm going to go with a size 8. Yes. 8." I also lengthened it 1.5". I like my casual tops on the long side, but in hindsight it was unnecessary.
Another initial concern that I had was the symmetrical sleeve. In my experience, a symmetrical sleeve just does not lend itself to a good fit. It just isn't anatomically correct.I anticipate that I'm going to have to get out my TNT S4037 & redraw the sleeve cap for future Renfrews. But I decided to do without first and see.
And onto the actual sewing. The cowl got me. And not because of a pattern error. Oh no. I completely missed the whole "cut two on fold" memo. That was writtin on the pattern piece. I cut one on fold. And when the pttern said, "sew pieces (with an 's'--plural) I read 'piece' so I sew up my little cowl and...now I cant unfold it. Mmm. Realized my mistake, ripped my seam & cut out a second cowl piece. With that, I was back on track.
After I attached the sleeves & sewed the front & back together I tried it on. It was a bit baggy, but nothing that taking in the side seams wouldn't fix. What really troubled me was the shoulder seam. It looked like a dropped sleeve. The seam was a half inch down my arm. I tried to take in the shoulder seam itself, but for some reason that wasn't giving me the results I wanted. While I was trying it on, I was just pinching random fabric, trying to figure out what to do next. I really, really didn't want this to be a wadder. I pinched the cowl/neck seam and that raised the shoulder seam up where I needed it to be. I KNOW I have small shoulders (probably narrow, too..or is that the same thing??) But I never take that into consideration when I'm tracing/cutting my pattern. Lesson learned.
The back is still pretty big and if I had to guess, that looks like a tell tale sway back. |
So there I was. Not loving my fabric choice. Not loving the fit. Mostly due to not sewing the right size in the first place. And not choosing a knit with spandex. I love me some cotton spandex knits. But I was determined to finish it. At the very lest I'll give it to my mom. She'll love it.
But I saved it; pinching an inch of the neck/cowl seam & taking the sides seams in a half inch on each side. It's still plenty roomy; I'd want it a bit more fitted if it was a t shirt.But as it is, it's as comfy as a sweatshirt but much more put together.
All in all, I'm so glad I saw it through.
Next time:
- Smaller size, probably a 4...maybe with an FBA
- Stick to the original length
- Try it with a slinkier knit...one with lycra for optimal recovery.
- I'll keep the sleeves/armholes the same just to see how it goes. I do have some wrinkles as is, but it's hard to tell how much of that is plain ol' sewing too big of a size. Down the road I might use the sleeves/armholes from my TNT S4076.
I think your Renfrew is lovely, and that shade of purple (eggplant?) is just gorgeous! The top looks great on you, and I'm glad you kept going on it.
ReplyDeleteI also just began my foray into the Renfrew. Based on all of the rave reviews, I was so hoping it would fit like a glove right out of the envelope!
ReplyDeleteI also cut a 10 in the bust and tapered down to an 8 at the hip (pattern says I would be a 6, like you) and it worked for me, except for the dang underarm wrinkles I'm getting, and some mid-back fabric pooling. I'm lowering the armhole (feels like my armpit is eating it!) and considering taking a chunk out of the front bodice/sleeve (AKA addressing the symmetrical sleeve).